How to spend a Sunday in North London

Walk up to Kenwood House on the northern edge of Hampstead Heath
Remind yourself that this used to be the countryside; Kenwood House was the estate of the 1st Earl of Mansfield during the 18th century.  It was only in the nineteenth century, with the coming of the railway, that "London" began to reach this far north.  It was only around the turn of the nineteenth century that London's population exceeded one million.

Get lost wandering in Hampstead Heath
At almost 800 acres, there's a lot to get lost in.  Fortunately, there are landmarks throughout (roads, ponds, and the like).  This isn't a wide-open green space like Hyde or Regent's Park.  While there are open spaces, much of the Heath is wooded.  On the whole, it feels quite wild and you can almost forget that the hum of central London is just a few miles away.  Worst-case scenario if you get truly lost: walk in one direction long enough and you'll find yourself back in civilization.  Still, not a bad idea to bring a map and compass.

All right, so it wasn't actually our plan to get lost.  But it happened.  Twice.  As I said, it's wild and unruly on the Heath, with lots of twisting paths.  It's all too easy to lose your sense of direction.  But it does wonders for your sense of adventure.

If you find yourself in the neighborhood of North End (as we did), marvel at the fact that there are dirt-and-gravel roads in London.

Eat ice cream and look at the emus in Golders Hill Park

Though it's technically part of the Heath, it feels very different: manicured lawns, a "water garden," and the ubiquitous cafe.  You can't have a park in London without an accompanying cafe.  The mint chocolate chip ice cream tastes like summer.


Stroll down the hill to Hampstead
Always described as a "village-y" bit of London, it lives up to its reputation.  Outside the pub prices (see below), you could imagine yourself having just found a respite from a long walk in the countryside (something we know about).  A few Hampstead highlights:

- Have a pint at the Horsheshoe. The beer's not cheap (almost £4 a pint), but it's local (brewed downstairs) and good. Their wheat beer is the darkest I've seen.

- Hampstead Creperie. Not to miss. Seriously. We were just in Paris, and this blows the crepes we had in Paris out of the water (if my abstract gets accepted to a conference in Rennes, I'll be sure to report on how the Breton entry in the Great Crepe Competition of 2010 fares). Becca's choice: mushroom and cheese. Danny's honey and walnut.

After enjoying the charms of Hampstead, make your way home through South End Green, stopping for ingredients for dinner.  Our recommendation: roasted garlic and sage risotto with walnuts, sauteed zucchini, and a Greek-ish salad.  Finish it off with a caramel and cashew cheesecake and you've had yourself an awfully good day.